The remote Cirque de Mafate is only accessible by foot or helicopter. Once you’ve entered the sunken ancient volcanic crater and descended the rim, there’s no way out. The jungle stretches for miles though my world has shrunk within dense closed canopy tunnel and my feet on the muddy trail. I’ve travelled half way around the world for the essence of winter in Somerset; mud, rain and cloud. For the first time ever during an event I indulge myself in some music and must apologise to my fellow runner who had to endure my tuneless hums with odd Ed Sheeran lyric at 03:00 on the infamous 1,400m climb towards Maido. Dawn breaks as I reach the Piton of Maido (2,190m); my former nemesis where my race had ended in 2019; but not today. Refueled by more melon, cheese and baby tomatoes I start the surprisingly runnable descent into Ilet Savannah (140km) where fresh socks, dry trainers and lentil stew awaits. My spirits lighten as the end seems within sight.
However, I had seriously underestimated the final 30km push from Ilet Savannah to the finish line at Redoute, Saint Denis. In reality, the distance transpired to be closer to 45km (!) and the trail morphed into a single track obstacle course through the dense jungle. Running was impossible as I clung to vines, scrambled over tree roots and bum slid down boulders. There was a brief respite along the exposed volcanic black rock paved road from Les Possessions (145.5km) to Colorado (161.9km) that had been painstakingly constructed during the French Colonial era by forced-labourers from Mauritius, Madagascar and Rodrigues. I paid a silent respect to their work as I painstakingly jumped, hobbled and wobbled from stone to stone.
Thankfully, beyond the trails of the isolated Cirque de Mafate the Reunion Island population turns out to support and crew their family, friends, colleagues, neighbours and strangers. The trail in the approach into aid stations is lined with pop up gazebos covered with bunting and fairy lights, music fills the air and I look wistfully at tables laden with personalised nutrition. The aid stations have plentiful fresh and dried fruit, cheese, chocolate and more; though my taste buds now crave something different.
The final 10km feels like it morphs into a distance far greater and I spend the time being overtaken ‘blue’ t-shirts otherwise known as runners from the shorter Zembrocal 100km trail race. The race rules state all runners need to finish in their event t-shirt so I’d changed into my ‘yellow’ t-shirt at the previous aid station Ilet Savannah. Despite knowing these runners were in a different race the sound of footsteps from behind my motivation dips slightly.
After 47hrs 42mins and 24secs, 185km and 10,472m+ (see Strava) I tottered across the finish-line at the Redoute Stadium to a whole-hearted welcome by the event volunteer interpreter crew who are quite simply angels in disguise. These lovely ladies scooped up my race drop bags, pointed me in the direction of the showers, plied me with fish stew and rice and invited me to join them for the prize giving celebrations the following day.
Battered – I find the aftermath of a 100-miler messy. The morning after brings a whole host of pain with my feet elevated on a pillow to reduce the mild throbbing sensation. The run and eat cycle is replaced by a sleep and eat cycle on repeat. I’m thankful I’ve purposively planned a couple of days for my swollen feet and sausage like toes to deflate before my return fight. The mental fog descends for a few days and the notion of a run unsurprisingly doesn’t appeal! It takes a couple of weeks before I head to my local Parkrun with the four-legged hound for a gentle trot.
Menstrual Cycle – Be aware ultra-running can wreak havoc with your hormones and hasten the arrival of your monthly menses. Race complete my body went into shit down mode and not for the first time my period arrived out of sync.
Research by Van Gend and Afr Med (1987) captured in Menstrual patterns in ultramarathon runners observed this short-term menstrual irregularity (any temporary deviation from normal menstrual patterns) was experienced by 41% of the runners during periods of intensive training and competition though menstrual patterns normalised once these stresses were removed.
BIG Gratitude – Ultra-running can be perceived as a solo affair though the support I received before, during and after this event illustrates the essence of the ultra-running community and impact and inspiration it can spread beyond a single event. From family and friends who watched a red dot move across a remote island in the middle of the Indian Ocean; the medics who kindly dressed my chaffed legs; the aid station volunteer who messaged congratulations via Instagram afterwards; the volunteer interpreters who showed such kindness; the list could go on. Thank you.
Diagonale de Fous – If you’re keen to gain a further insight into this crazy race the footage below gives a flavour of the terrain –
~ Begin Again - Dylan Bowman’s experience of Diagonale de Fous in 2021 (45 mins)
~ Simon Gerard video blog from 2024 (58 mins)
What’s next? I’ll preempt the inevitable question aka ‘what’s next?’ Running plays a central part of my life. For many years as an elite athlete it became the only part. My life was training, racing, competing, resting driven by numbers, performance and position. Each year was meticulously planned out in advance and my life was dictated by the Chronic Training Load (CTL) aka ‘blue’ line on Training Peaks (IYKYK). I loved it and won’t change it for the world. Though that’s not a world I want or choose to live in now.
For the last 12 years I’ve been fortunate to train and race around the world with the support and partnership of some amazing brands; La Sportiva, WAA, Precision Fuel and Hydration, Veloforte, Ultra Trail World Tour and ULTRA-X. I’ve always had an aversion to the concept of ‘retirement’ from work or sport yet culturally and socially it’s a recognised term. All good things must come to an end.
There will inevitably be other ultra-challenges in the pipeline though I’ve given myself permission to look beyond performance. I’ve got nothing further to prove. I am good enough. I’ve given myself permission to change my relationship with running where going back to Reunion Island was an intentional rite of passage for me. I needed to physically, mentally and emotionally walk across this island; and pass the point where I’d previously stopped and broken. I felt held and supported on this journey by so many friends from around the world. Thank you.
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